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THINGS TO DO IN VALLICO SOTTO
Eating
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See the TTI restaurant guide.
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You may like to take advantage of the fact that the monastery has its very own cookbook - The Il Collegio Cookbook written by former owner Leonie Whitton - and two very nice kitchens.
- Vallico Sotto's own restaurant closed sometime in the late 1990s. If you want a change of career, the restaurant is still there complete with cookers and tables - please open it up again. You couldn't wish for a nicer setting. You could reopen Vallico's little shop as well (which closed in Dec 2007) and make a proper business empire out of it.
Very strenuous activities
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Climb the peak of Monte Procinto. This is a huge cylindrical rock tower with a belt of trees around its middle from which rise 500-foot walls, overhanging on every side. Did you know that Michelangelo had the idea of carving it into a gigantic scultpure along the lines of Mount Rushmore? Well he didn't in the end, but you can see the mountain either at the top right of this page or, in close up, here . Yes -
the walls are more or less vertical, but there is a via ferrata to clip yourself onto. Instruction, assistance, and the necessary equipment can usually be supplied.
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Reach the high peak of Pania della Croce from Piglionico (described as
`The finest peak in the whole of Italy' in Below the Snow Line - one of
the 19th century books in the TTI Antiquarian Library). Also features in
Dante's Divine Comedy. This defeated some of TTI finest mountaineers
for several years before they finally succeeded in 2007 (note - it isn't that
hard if you move quickly).
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Find the spectacular natural rock bridge of Monte Forato (under which
someone once flew a biplane).
Start from Fornovolasco (lots of up) or from
Matanna (much easier) or even have two groups that meet in the middle and exchange car keys.
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Mike has recently bought the Italian book The ninety caves of Fornovolasco and
is currently translating it into English. In the meantime here's Di Alcune Grotte.. from the Buffardello people. These caves litter the slopes of
Pania della Croce and the various other mountains surrounding the little
village of Fornovolasco in the next valley along from ours. How many of these
can we find? Dare we enter the 'Garfagnana Abyss'?
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Orrido di Botri canyon walk. The Orrido is a giant canyon
created by the Pelago river in the Appenines (about an hour's drive from the
Institute) with deep steep walls as high as 200 metres and in some places only
a few metres apart. This is a geologists' and naturalists' paradise. It can
only be visited with helmets and suitable clothing you don't mind getting wet.
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Mad people! Have a fun morning workout. Run from the Institute each
morning at 6am to the spectacular summit of Monte Palodina then all the way back down again in order to tone up
your thigh muscles and pep yourself up for the day ahead.
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Complete the Cinque Terre coastal walk, a four hour excursion through some of Italy's most spectacular scenery.
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There are of course any number of spectacular high mountain expeditions
in the Apuan Alps and the Institute has a library of guidebooks which you can
browse through. Let me know if you want to try anything else (that will fit in
the clearly limited amount of time). There is also the TTI Antiquarian library (Mountaineering section) to inspire you.
Quite strenuous activities
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Go to Alta Matanna at the end of the Turritecava valley and visit the beautiful
nineteenth-century hunting lodge that was once the destination for travellers in
Rosetta the Balloon on her aerostatic cableway.
See the old balloon station at Foce del Pallone and the extraordinary view. On clear days you can see Elba - 100 miles to the South - and sometimes the even more distant Corsica and the French Alps. Come back over the top of Monte Matanna and descend back to the lodge. Take one of the Institute's antique telescopes with you!
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From the Matanna hotel, climb up to the cross for a spectacular view of Monte Procinto, Stazzema and the Apuan Alps. From there you can climb Monte Matanna
the other way around, or visit the donkey and his little horse friends who live on the top of Monte Nona. Or you could go on a longer walk below the Giant West Wall of Nona, threading past Monte Procinto, and round the back of Monte Nona which will take several hours. Finish up the day with a fabulous dinner in the Matanna hotel.
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Take part in the latest expedition to the ancient cave known as the
Tana di Cascaltendine which is the subject of Pietro Magri's 1880 book
An expedition to Mount Gragno and the Cave of Cascaltendine as
translated by Mike and available here.
A 2007 TTI summer school crew were able to photograph the result
of the following quote: 'Before coming down from the cavern we used a chisel to inscribe our initials and the year 1880 on both walls of the passage near the entrance.'
This was done in the "Palace of Ismeno" which was the name Magri's group gave
to an extensive cave whose entrance is a six-foot hole about forty feet up a
cliff - the full story is on the News from the Towler Institute blog.
It is also known that the cave continues for a kilometre beyond where
we have penetrated before and this remains to be explored (note that in summer
2007, Mike and Evans went up the big wall in the final chamber with the dangling rope - a place many TTI visitors have visited before - with somewhat amusing conesquences - see the blog story 'Bronze
Hermaphrodites and the Fat Boy Filter'). Expedition to be followed by cold
beers and refreshments in the lovely village of Cardoso, or a circuit of Monte
Penna hunting for the lost Cave of the Fairies..
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Explore the Vallico Sotto mule trail and the spectacular forgotten
waterfall of Cascata Pendolina - one of the higher waterfalls in Italy. Vallico was only
connected by road to the outside world in the 1960s - before then people went up
and down the mule trail. This has now been practically forgotten and is a little
overgrown but is still very
beautiful. Once we reach the bottom of the valley we will head over the river to
the site of the Cascata Pendolina where will take lunch. On the way back the
bravest people will try to ascend the Canyon of the Pili (The Rio Selvano river is coming the other way - so you will get wet!).
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Explore the cave (apparently called the Buca della Freddana) near the
mule trail from Vallico Sopra to San Luigi. This was
(re-)discovered by Mike in Easter 2007 following conflicting and confusing advice from several
local old ladies who remembered its existence from 40 years ago. He has also found the upper entrance of the same cave on the summit of Monte Penna - the two are apparently connected by a 1 kilometre passage. The old ladies have advised us not to
go inside because of the evil monsters and dark pits that lurk within, but then
again, they always say that. Dare you explore?
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Five a side-football (a new fenced pitch was constructed in Vallico
a couple of years ago) or regular football (on the local full-sized pitch).
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Rock climbing or low-level bouldering - the Institute should have some ropes
and climbing equipment. Don't forget to bring climbing boots and a harness that fits if you want to do this seriously.
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Pietro Magri in his 1880 book mentioned above states that there are two
other caves in Monte Gragno besides the Tana di Cascaltendine. Today no-one
seems to know where they are. Having found the Buca della Freddana, Mike has narrowed down the lost ``Cave of the Fairies'' to a relatively small area. Can you find it?
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Traverse from Santa Luigi via Monte Palodina and the spectacular cliffs of
Monte Gragno past the giant karst depression of Pian di Lago to the spectacular
Rocca Estense fortress of Trassilico.
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Explore the Tana che urla (the Cave that Screams!) - first
explored and scientifically described by Vallisneri in 1726 - off the footpath
to Foce di Petrosciano from Fornovalasco. This isn't a tourist cave suitable
for your mum - so bring some appropriate clothes and torches. By the summer the
Institute should have some proper speleological equipment to hand round. If you
can read Italian, have a look at the document ..di alcune grotte della Garfagnana nella storiografia e nella tradizione populare.
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Go on a lovely walk over the highest stone railway bridge in Europe to the church in Sambuca.
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Go wild boar hunting. Find, point, shoot (with a camera anyway).
- Learn to play local sport palla elastica (elastic ball).
- Go kayaking on the Turritecava. Bring your own canoe.
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Explore the ancient Vasaio di Motrone cave near the nearby village of Motrone (see here).
Relaxed activities
- Retired former Cambridge physics professor Elisabeth Marseglia who lives
nearby has been known to pop in to lead Pilates classes in the TTI church.
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Look in the latest issue of Grapevine magazine for local cultural
activities and concerts etc.. - in English!
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Play with the Institute's Victorian Scientific Instrument Collection.
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Spend the afternoon bathing in the outdoor hot pool at the
thermal baths of Bagni di Lucca (one of the most fashionable spots in Europe in
Lord Byron's time - the Switzerland of Tuscany!). Followed by shopping,
sightseeing and coffee in the town centre.
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Samantha has two other favourite open-air pools at Gallicano and Barga.
These are like little beach resorts where one lazes about on deckchairs and has
the occasional dip.
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Watch the night sky through the Institute's astronomical telescope.
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Visit the ancient city of Barga for an
afternoon's relaxed sightseeing, shopping and culture. In the summer there are Opera and Jazz Festivals.
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Visit the beautiful city of Lucca. (Many reasons!)
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Visit Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, where you can find Andrea's (the 'Indiana Jones of the Garfagnana') famous Osteria, where all day you can sample fabulous local wines, cheeses and snacks.
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Follow in the footsteps of Michaelangelo, and visit some of the Apuan
Alps famous marble quarries.
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Day trip to Florence.
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Drive to the next valley along from ours over a spectacular high mountain
road where the eagles live. Visit the Grotta del Vento - the Cave of the Winds. This is the most famous cave system in
Tuscany and the visitor will enjoy a spectacular and bizarre landscape of
caverns and lakes. Take a pullover as the temperature is a reliable 10 degrees
the whole year round. Then head down the valley to visit the Eremo di
Calomini - an ancient monastery built into a high steep cliff.
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Table football and drinking in Fabbriche di Vallico.
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Horse riding at La Fornace.
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Various mild short walks around the Institute.
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Digging the Institute garden and doing little DIY things like restoring
the church or clearing paths (I say this merely in hope..).
Very relaxed activities
- TTI now has a high-definition video camera. Make a film of life at
one of the world's best conferences.
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Budding archaeologists may use the TTI metal detector - bought following
last year's spooky event when Evans and Mike were digging a hole in the
ground for the satellite dish (I'm really not making this up):
MIKE: Hey Evans, watch out for crucifixes when you're digging that hole. This
used to be a monastery you know. EVANS (REACHING INTO THE HOLE) What, like
this one? (HOLDS UP A THOUSAND YEAR OLD BRONZE CRUCIFIX FROM FIVE FEET DOWN).
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Spend all day in the TTI garden relaxing in one of the Institute's
three hammocks, drinking wine, snoozing or reading one of the books from
the TTI library.
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The Institute has a variety of board games, jigsaws, and similar
entertainments together with a number of Victorian books with titles like
"What To Do On Cold Winter Evenings Given That We Haven't Invented Television Yet".
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Debate physics or whatever you happen to be interested in with the help of the Institute blackboards.
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Listen to one of Mike's tedious lectures inspired by the contents of the
TTI Antiquarian Library such as Richard Burton and the Source of the Nile
(Burton the Victorian explorer and polymath, not the Welsh actor out of Where Eagles Dare..) or Up The Orinoco with Alexander von Humboldt.
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Mike is translating some chapters of a book on the history of Vallico Sotto.
If he's finished it by the time you visit, then walk around the village
looking at the buildings and places it describes.
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Spa treatments in the Bagni di Lucca "Thermal resort".
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MDT has taken to writing stories about events at the Institute and publishing
them on his blog at the local Barga News website. See barganews.com and the News from the Towler Institute blog
So far these are mainly about cave explorations and similar adventures.
However, Mike doesn't have a monopoly on this. If you wish to contribute
your literary efforts then please send your stories about your adventures in
Italy to him, and they will be published on the blog.
General
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The Institute has a wildlife photography notice board upstairs on the top floor. Prizes for
the best entries, particularly if you can take a picture of
one of the eagles that regular soar above Vallico or of the elusive
marmite.
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The Towler Institute Exploration Society also has a photographic competition running.
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Revitalize the economy of Vallico Sotto. It's only about 70 years since 700 people lived here. Now less than 100 do so. Just because modern lazy teenagers want to be fashion models smoking drugs in Milan rather than having a nice healthy outdoor life, the population of rural Italy has been denuded. Let's bring back the time when all the mountain terraces were in production, packs of nice mules helped carry things, teams of volunteers kept paths and bridges open, and everyone knew how to bake chestnut cakes. All serious suggestions gratefully received.
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